The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 changed forever the course of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, evolving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"That era was the peak of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that spontaneity."

While Enninful may seem sentimental, he is far from alone. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has become pervasive. However since that time, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Cultural Backslide

This regression is increasingly evident: the rise of populist movements, the backlash against progressive values, and the reinforcement of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the late 90s, now a more divisive political personality appears as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of national pride, has become contentious again.

In Enninful's view, the solution has long been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a diverse array of prominent faces from politics.

"Individuals with a platform should use it," he asserts, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this moment will end."

Hope in the Next Generation

He takes comfort in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I had no concept what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a pioneering career marked by boldness and representation. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from all walks of life. Critically, sales rose.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s commercially unwise," he states.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his premier initiative since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor".

"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where the majority was Black – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being on the inside and the outside."

In contrast to the stereotype of fashion editors as brash and highly strung, Enninful is calm and radiates serenity. His journey has not been immune to hardship, including openly discussed battles with mental health and substance use.

He has also faced serious health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, leading to limited vision. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

Curating a Cultural Era

This drive to fit into a box has propelled him beyond the realm that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"Institutions sometimes neglected to promote the truly innovative creators because they lacked the expected background," he observes.

The magazine 72 itself uses a different approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "Our approach is, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Today, Enninful operates as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His journey, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

What would the Enninful of that era think of the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was a rebel. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."